Close the bleeder and repeat until all the air is out of the system. We use industry data to pull together labour times and part prices specific to you and your vehicle. Finally, online, I found this: "I think the biggest reason it is so hard to bleed the clutch system is because the bleeder valve is lower than the incoming fluid line. This procedure is called “bleeding” your clutch system by most mechanics and is important because air in a hydraulic system will cause it to malfunction. Purpose. You bleed a hydraulic clutch the same way you bleed a brake system and it uses brake fluid as well.you keep bleeding until there is no more air in the clutch system.there should be a bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder that is were you bleed the clutch from. 3. As you press the clutch pedal, the master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid, in this case brake fluid, down through the line into the slave cylinder. Labor costs are estimated between $97 and $122. The best way to avoid having the clutch wear out prematurely is to avoid both high RPM and too cautious handling of the clutch. If you have air in your clutch system you've got problems besides bleeding the clutch. Service of the clutch hydraulic system system is part of factory scheduled maintenance, and the schedule is located in the owner’s manual of most vehicle's. Air pockets prevent the hydraulic system from functioning properly. bottle or more. The clutch hydraulic system must be bled after any clutch repairs, or any time that the clutch hydraulic system has been disconnected at any point. Tips: Don't let the clutch reservoir run out of hydraulic fluid. Use brake fluid. A clutch that feels stiff or is difficult to press is another common clutch problem. Zippo. Helpful 1. They usually have a bleed screw on the side. had my wife slowly pump the pedal, and even tried a slow gravity bleed, all with the bleeder at 12:00. Never let the master cylinder empty out. 2) Get a clutch pedal buddy, a person that can push the clutch pedal in and hold it to the floor, and then lift the pedal off of the floor on command. Push pedal to floor. When satisfied all the air has been bled from the system, tighten the slave cylinder bleeder and replace the dust cap. Here we bring you the complete tutorial on how to bleed a clutch. If it can be pushed in more than 1/8” it requires further bleeding, repeat steps 4 thru 7. Any time you open the hydraulic system you will need to bleed it to remove air pockets. 4. I have tried bleeding the system in every manner I have heard of, except a pressue bleeder. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal and then hold it down. To the best of my knowledge the system has been bleed sufficiently, but, it is now functioning the same as it was before I replaced the cylinders. The Porsche 928 has a hydraulic clutch with a master cylinder attached to the brake pedal, and a slave cylinder pushing the clutch. This picture shows the two fittings assembled. Clean your work area and all the tools and containers in it. Tighten the bleeder valve for the final time, tell your helper to let off the clutch, and open up the top of the master cylinder to add hydraulic brake fluid till it is topped up. The physical process is very simple (just like bleeding brakes); the bends and curves in the lines are notorious for trapping air in them during this usual bleed process. Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. You should also take the time to check for correct Harley hydraulic clutch plate movement. Should be … How Long Does It Take To Bleed A Clutch? Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. Make sure that the clutch master cylinder resivior is full with fluid. The bleeder fitting pushes open the check valve and allows you to easily flush the circuit. Reassemble, tighten the bleeder. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs. Keep the bleeding pressure as low as possible. Open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir on the master … Zippo. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid. The key to hydraulic systems like modern brakes is the incompressible nature of the fluid in the system. Hydraulic fluid will then run out the bleeder along with air that may be in the system. Next, check for leaks along the hydraulic lines. Master cylinders are a long lasting part, but they won’t last forever. 2) Pressurize power bleeder with fluid in it. Because the hydraulic clutch uses DOT4 brake fluid, it needs to be bled out of the line and replaced at minimum once every 2 years. Because a hydraulic linkage places a pressurized fluid between the pedal and the clutch, the free play that a driver can normally feel in the clutch pedal is lost. There is actually no service schedule for replacing the mineral oil clutch fluid on the GS but it might be a good idea to do so after 5 years or 50k miles or if the blue oil becomes dark from contamination from particles that have broken down within the system. The guy you were talking to should not be allowed to work on your bike. What do you guy think of this process: 1) Hook up power bleed to master cylinder. If you can bleed brakes, you can bleed the clutch. A soft or low brake pedal can often be traced to air in the brake lines. If low, top off the system and test the clutch pedal. If it is close or below the minimum line, you should inspect the master cylinder and clutch system … To resolve these problems, AMS offers the industry’s first and most comprehensive lineup of pre-filled clutch hydraulics, available as a pre-filled system or a pre-filled master cylinder. Preferably earlier. After changing my clutch disc, pressure plate and T/O bearing, my clutch refused to release. When bleeding the clutch with a vacuum bleeder should you follow this procedure: 1: Fit the bleeder. Leave the bleed screw open until a steady stream of hydraulic fluid comes from the bleed screw. The hydraulic system is the direct link between your foot and the consistency and reliability at which a clutch is operating. Set it up. my guess is you still have a rather large air pocket in the system somewhere and you haven't gotten it out yet, try this, put a hose on the the bleeder nipple, make sure it is tight drop it into a container that has brake fluid in it deep enough to keep the hose submerged, (the hose must stay submerged while doing this) then open your bleeder screw and slowly pump your clutch handle, … Finger tight is all it takes. The clutch bleeder on the end of that black tube is all downhill from the master cylinder, so fluid should work its way down slowly by gravity just by opening the bleed screw.

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